Sunday, November 5, 2017

Tiger's Nest Monastery - Last Hike!

Could we make it all the way up to Tiger's Nest?

Legend has it that Guru Rinpoche flew to this site on the back of a tigress to subdue a demon.  It is Bhutan's most holiest of monasteries and is an arduous journey to ascend to its perch.  Once you arrive it feels much like being a bird hovering for a moment on the edge of the Himalayan mountains.  If you look closely, you can see it as a white dot within the foggy mist.  About eight miles away and up, up, up.
8:15 am and on our way....

First good view from the trail - be sure to view the last video on this blog.

Prayer flags lighten the journey and we were fortunate to have such a beautiful day.
Some people choose to go up half way on horses.


We came to a series of prayer wheels.  Still a long way to go.  Good time to pray that you can make it all the way up.  My dance injured left foot was giving me trouble.  
Steph was fine.  Couple hours to go....  
In the photo below you can see Tiger's Nest in the distance.


Stephanie with the huge prayer wheel en route
It was exciting to experience the majesty of Tiger's Nest the closer and closer we got

Around 11 am we stopped for some tea and coffee at the state-run cafe about mid-way up.  Many people just go this far but we soldiered on....
People from all countries come to experience the Tiger's Nest,
but the majority of people we saw were from India and Asia. 
Below, red peppers dry on the roofs of Bhutan and on this tin roof of the Cafe.
The red prayer wheel is made of a discarded plastic water bottle.
The Bhutanese are an environmentally conscious people.

Stephanie waits in line for the primitive toilet facility

Below is Kinley, our brave driver.  He came along on our hike and said he was prepared to carry me back if my foot gave out all the way.  Luckily for him, I managed the whole journey.


Stephanie and Tashi going over the beliefs and myths we were about to experience once we got to the Monastery.  Those discussions were valuable rest stops in an exquisite setting.

As we ascended the trail we came across these tiny little chortens, or a receptacle for an offering.  Each one contained prayers for individuals, or perhaps a God of the person's choosing.  The trail, the journey itself, had a sacred feeling throughout.

I'm happy because it was clear I was going to make it all the way.

Here we are greeted by a guide friend of Tashi.  We'd made it to Tiger's Nest!  
They put your phones in a locker at this point and you go inside the Monastery.  My phone registered that we'd climbed 67 floors.  It felt like a whole lot more. 

The video below gives you a little of the excitement through the sounds of the horns and of the wind as you approach the Tiger's Nest.  An arduous but exquisite experience.




Third Day of the Teschu - Dance of the Eight Manifestations of Guru Rinpoche & The Dance of the Heroes

It was the third day of Thimpu's Teschu Festival.

I needed help to get into my long traditional Kira.  Two young women from the Terma Linca hotel came to our room to dress me.  It's all one piece of fabric wrapped around the body in clever ways, held onto the shoulders by two decorative silver and gold pins.  The jacket covers the pins in the photo above.  The elaborately embroidered sashes are worn only for the festival and they honor and respect the traditional gods.  The sashes must be worn on the left side.  This Kira fabric took Sonam, the weaver, three years to make. It's silk and cotton. The pattern incorporates the Endless Knot.  Bhutan is known for it's beautiful textiles.

Below are fabrics that are available to purchase and sew into beautiful traditional skirts. 
These are made of cotton and silk.



The hilarious Teschu clown greeted Stephanie and I that morning.  
  If you're interested in costume, weaving, or cloth,  double click on this photo to see the amazing weaving done on the Kira cloth.


Below is a video of the Men's Welcome Dance.  So pleasant to watch.
The men do all the dancing at these festivals.
I recommend clicking the box on the lower right to view these videos full screen.


And then, the Women come out and sing a traditional folk song.
They have the most beautiful Kira's (Traditional Women's Dress).  
Their hand movements coordinate in tandem with irregular patterns with their feet.



Below is a video of the dance of The Eight Manifestations of Guru Rinpoche.  
The eight manifestations are different forms of Guru Rinpoche, who is accompanied by his consorts, Yeshe Tshogyel and Mandarava.  This is both a dance and a drama and starts with Dorji Drolo, wearing a terrifying red mask, entering the dance area followed by a long procession with the eight manifestations.1
Here's a short video of the Manifestation's diagonal exit 


This last and most exciting dance we saw was the 
Dance of the Heros.  
This energetic dance based on a vision by Pema Linga is thought to lead believers directly to the presence of Guru Rinpoche.  The dancers wear yellow skirts and golden crowns but do not wear masks.  They carry a drilbu (small bell) and a damaru (small drum).2 
Watch how the dancers jump up and bring their knees to their foreheads.  This is done on a stone surface and the dance lasts, as almost of them do, forty-five minutes! 

Here's a clip of the Hero's Dance Finale

The incredible colors of the Butanese costumes


*1,2 Descriptions from the Lonely Planet Book.